Evaluation of antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive activities of Marcetia macrophylla extract: potential for formulation of sunscreens / Avaliação da atividade antioxidante, photoprotetora e antinociceptiva de Marcetia macrophylla: potencial formulação fotoprotetora

Abstract The antioxidant, photoprotective and antinociceptive Marcetia macrophylla active extract was investigated as an active ingredient in a sunscreen cream formulation. Thus, the M. macrophylla extract showed IC50 of 3.43 mg/ml of the antioxidant (DPPH∙ scavenging test) and Sun Protection Factor of 20.25 (SPF/UV-B, at 250 µg/ml) and UV-A of 78.09% (photobleaching trans-resveratrol test). The antinociceptive activity was superior to all standards tested using the in vivo acetic acid-induced writhing test (99.14% at the dose of 200 mg/kg) and the high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detector and mass spectroscopy multi-stage (HPLC-DAD-MS/MS) enabled the structural characterization of the quercetin-3-O-hexoside, quercetin-3-O-pentoside and quercetin-3-O-desoxihexoside. The pharmaceutical formulation containing the Marcetia macrophylla crude active extract was prepared and the physicochemical tests (organoleptic characteristics, pH analysis and centrifugation), the in vitro UVB (sun protection factor, SPF) and UVA (β-carotene) using the spectroscopic method were investigated. The formulation showed satisfactory results concerning the physicochemical parameters evaluated and active against the UV test. Thus, M. macrophylla showed biological activities with potential use in pharmaceutical preparations.

Resumo O extrato bruto de Marcetia macrophylla mostrou atividade antioxidante, fotoprotetora e antinociceptiva, sendo em seguida investigado como ingrediente ativo em uma formulação fotoprotetora. Assim, o extrato de M. macrophylla apresentou atividade antioxidante com IC50 de 3,43 mg/mL (teste de sequestro do DPPH∙) e Fator de Proteção Solar de 20,25 (FPS/UV-B, 250 µg/mL) e UV-A de 78,09% (teste de fotobranqueamento do trans-resveratrol). A atividade antinociceptiva usando o teste in vivo de contorções abdominais induzidas por ácido acético foi superior a todos os padrões testados (99,14% na dose de 200 mg/Kg). A análise por cromatografia líquida de alta eficiência acoplada a detector de fotodiodos e espectroscopia de massas multi-estágio (CLAE-DAD-EM/EM) possibilitou a caracterização dos flavonoides quercetina-3-O-hexosídeo, quercetina-3-O-pentosídeo e quercetina-3-O-desoxihexosídeo. A formulação farmacêutica contendo o extrato ativo bruto de Marcetia macrophylla foi preparada e os testes físico-químicos (características organolépticas, análise de pH e centrifugação), o UVB in vitro (fator de proteção solar, FPS) e UVA (β-caroteno) foram investigados. A formulação apresentou resultados satisfatórios frente aos parâmetros físico-químicos avaliados e ativos contra UV. Assim, M. macrophylla apresentou atividades biológicas com potencial uso em preparações fitofarmacêuticas.

Development and characterization of photoprotective nanoemulsions containing Babassu (Orbignya phalerata Mart. ) lipophilic extract

Abstract Oil-in-water photoprotective nanoemulsions (NEs) were developed using Babassu (BBS) lipophilic extract, nonionic surfactants, and low concentrations of organic sunscreens by ultrasonic processing. BBS extract was chosen due to its suitable physicochemical properties (acidity index, peroxide index, refraction index, and relative density) and predominance of saturated fatty acids, identified by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS), which promote biological activities and high oxidative stability. NEs were characterized by mean droplet size, morphology, polydispersity index (PdI), pH, and organoleptic properties, and the physical stability of the NEs was evaluated for 120 days at room temperature. The sun protection factor (SPF) was determined, and the photostability and in vitro cytotoxicity assays were performed for NEs. All NEs remained stable for 120 days, with a droplet size <150 nm and a monomodal distribution profile. The pH values were compatible with the skin's pH. NE3 showed a spherical morphology, with a mean droplet size of 125.15 ± 0.16 nm and PdI of 0.145 ± 0.032. NE3 containing BBS extract and sunscreens presented an SPF of 35.5 ± 3.0, was photostable after 6 h of radiation and was non-cytotoxic to fibroblast cells. Thus, NE3 could be considered a promising formulation for developing synergic plant-extract sunscreen photoprotective products for the market

Blocking or enhancing effects of some basic emollients in UVA penetration

Abstract: Background: Topical agents used in combination with phototherapy or photochemotherapy may have both blocking or enhancing effects in ultraviolet rays. Objective: In this in vivo study, the effects of topical petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, and olive oil on the transmission of ultraviolet A radiation were investigated. Methods: A test was performed to determine the minimal phototoxic dose on 29 volunteers with only psoralen plus ultraviolet A (PUVA) and then the same test was repeated with white petrolatum, basis cream, glycerine, olive oil, and sunscreen (0.3cc/25cm2). The effects of each agent on the minimal phototoxic dose were determined after 72 h. Results: When compared to pure PUVA, there was a statistically significant increase in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values by the application of white petrolatum (P = 0.011), but there was no significant increase or decrease in the mean minimal phototoxic dose values after the application of basis cream (P = 0.326), glycerine (P = 0.611) or olive oil (P = 0.799). Study limitations: Low number of patients Conclusion: The application of white petrolatum, which has a blocking effect, and also of basis cream immediately before PUVA therapy should not be recommended. Although we specify that glycerine and maybe olive oil can be used before photochemotherapy, there is a need for further research in larger series.

Fotoprotetores bioativos contendo extrato de mirtilo (Vaccinium myrtillus L. ): caracterização físico-química e funcional / Bioactive sunscreens containing blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus L. ): physicochemical and funcional characterization

Os efeitos deletérios causados pela radiação ultravioleta (UV) e o aumento significativo no diagnóstico de câncer de pele, confirmam a necessidade de um progresso significativo na pesquisa de produtos fotoprotetores eficazes e seguros, para proteção eficaz da pele. As formulações atuais associam filtros UV, orgânicos e inorgânicos, com eficácia limitada e que podem acarretar reações cutâneas adversas. O extrato de Vaccinium myrtillus L. (EVM) apresenta em sua composição compostos fenólicos, como as antocianinas, que possuem atividade antioxidante. O objetivo deste estudo foi avaliar formulações fotoprotetoras contendo extrato de Vaccinium myrtillus L. com amplo espectro de ação e concentrações reduzidas de filtros UV. As emulsões contendo ou não EVM e filtros orgânicos (octocrileno e metileno bis-benzotriazolil tetrametilbutilfenol) e inorgânico (dióxido de titânio) foram avaliadas e consideradas estáveis perante parâmetros pré-definidos. O perfil de segurança foi determinado pelo método in vitro Hen´s Egg Test - Chorioallantoic Membrane (HET-CAM) e o potencial antirradicalar do EVM foi confirmado pelo teste de DPPH• A formulação fotoprotetora acrescida de 5,0% de EVM foi avaliada quanto à eficácia fotoprotetora in vivo e in vitro e não demonstrou aumento significativo no FPS quando comparada à formulação que continha somente os filtros solares e, no ensaio referente à hidratação da pele, não houve alteração nos dados, segundo teste de eficácia clínica. Os resultados obtidos sugeriram que mesmo não apresentando aumento no valor de FPS in vivo, a formulação fotoprotetora contendo o extrato, poderia atuar como agente antioxidante evitando os danos provocados pela radiação UV

The deleterious effects caused by ultraviolet radiation (UV) and the significant increase in the diagnosis of skin cancer confirm the need for significant progress in researching effective and safe sunscreen products for effective skin protection. Current formulations associate UV, organic and inorganic filters with limited efficacy that can lead to adverse skin reactions. Vaccinium myrtillus extract (EVM) contains in its composition polyphenols compounds, such as anthocyanins, which have been antioxidant activity. The objective of this study was to evaluate sunscreens containing EVM with broad action spectrum and reduced concentrations of UV filters. Emulsions containing or not EVM and organic (octocrylene and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol) and inorganic (titanium dioxide) filters were evaluated and considered stable under pre-defined parameters. The safety of the emulsion was assessed was determined by the in vitro Hen´s Egg Test - Chorioallantoic Membrane method (HET-CAM) and the antiradical potential of EVM was confirmed by the DPPH• test. The sunscreen formulation containing EVM 5.0% was photoprotective efficacy evaluated in vivo and in vitro and did not show a significant increase in SPF when compared the formulation only with UV filters and no improves skin hydration, according to clinical efficacy assay. The results of the study suggest that even without increase SPF in vivo, the sunscreen formulation containing the extract may show antioxidant activity avoiding damage caused by UV

Hydrolyzed collagen interferes with in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens

ABSTRACT The chronological skin aging is a progressive and natural process with genetic and physiological changes. However, ultraviolet (UV) radiation may accelerate the oxidative stress, generating carcinogenesis and photoaging. Natural compounds and their applications are considered a trend in the cosmetic market. The protein-based film-forming compounds play an important role, once it collaborates for the better distribution of sunscreens on the skin. Here we investigated the in vitro photoprotective effectiveness of sunscreens containing the hydrolyzed collagen associated with UVA, UVB and/or inorganic filters. Sunscreens were developed with octocrylene (7.5%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) (3.0%) and/or titanium dioxide (5.0%), associated or not with the hydrolyzed collagen (3.0%). In vitro photoprotective effectiveness was determined in a Labsphere(r) UV2000S by the establishment of the sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength (nm) values. Physicochemical and organoleptic characteristics were also assayed. The hydrolyzed collagen subjectively improved the formulation sensory characteristics. However, this bioactive compound led to a decrease of the SPF values of the photoprotective formulations containing octocrylene alone and octocrylene + butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane + TiO2. This inadequate interaction may be considered during the development of new sunscreens intended to contain protein-based components.

Influência da rutina na fotoestabilização da avobenzona (filtro UVA) e do ρ-metoxicinamato de octila (filtro UVB) / Influence of rutin in photostabilization of avobenzone (UVA filter) and octyl methoxycinnamate (UVB filter)

Com o intuito de promover proteção de amplo espectro, na maioria dos protetores solares estão associados pelo menos dois filtros orgânicos (UVA e UVB). A combinação da avobenzona (BMBM), filtro UVA, e do p--metoxicinamato de octila (EHMC), filtro UVB, é conhecida e muito utilizada em formulações manipulas e industrializadas, porém apresenta alteração na absorção espectral após exposição à radiação UV. A estratégia empregada com maior frequência para reduzir a instabilidade da combinação é baseada na adição de agentes fotoestabilizadores. A adição de substâncias naturais em formulações fotoprotetoras vem sendo explorada, especialmente o grupo dos flavonoides, como a rutina, que apresenta resultados positivos em relação à eficácia fotoprotetora. O objetivo principal desta pesquisa foi avaliar o potencial da rutina como substância fotoestabilizadora dos filtros EHMC e BMBM. Foram desenvolvidas formulações contendo os dois filtros associados ou não com rutina de acordo planejamento fatorial em três níveis. As formulações foram avaliadas quanto a eficácia fotoprotetora in vitro aplicadas em placas de PMMA e analisadas por espectrofotometria de refletância com esfera de integração antes e após a exposição à radiação UV. As interações moleculares dos filtros com a rutina foram avaliadas por 1H RMN, DSC, TG e análise qualitativa da supressão do estado energético singleto. A adição de rutina nas formulações contendo 5,0% (p/p) de BMBM e 10,0% (p/p) de EHMC promoveu elevação na conservação do FPS in vitro de 53,9% para 65,8 (0,1% de rutina) e 70,8% (1,0% de rutina). As curvas DSC e TG da rutina apresentaram alterações promovidas pela presença dos filtros BMBM e EHMC, indicando interação entre o flavonoide e os filtros. Após dose de 5760 J cm-2 de radiação UV o valor da razão trans/cis para o filtro EHMC em solução adicionado do filtro BMBM foi elevado de 5,5±0,1, sem adição de rutina, para 12,6±0,4, com adição da rutina. A análise qualitativa da supressão do estado singleto indicou que um dos mecanismos envolvidos na fotoestabilização dos filtros BMBM e EHMC é a supressão do estado energético singleto. Os resultados reportados neste estudo indicaram que a adição da rutina em formulações fotoprotetoras representa um caminho simples e efetivo para elevar a fotoestabilidade da combinação dos filtros BMBM e EHMC. A adição da rutina em formulações fotoprotetoras representa uma estratégia promissora, pois aliada a ação fotoestabilizadora, verificada nesse estudo, esse flavonoide possui propriedades antioxidante e quelante de metais que podem colaborar para o desenvolvimento de formulações fotoprotetoras de amplo espectro com aumento da segurança e eficácia

In order to promote broad-spectrum protection, most sunscreens are associated with at least two organic filters (UVA and UVB). The combination of avobenzone (BMBM), UVA filter, and octyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), UVB filter, is well known and widely used in industrial formulations and pharmaceutical compounding, but shows alteration in spectral absorption after UV radiation exposure. The most commonly used strategy to reduce the instability of the combination is based on the addition of photostabilizer agents. The addition of natural substances in sunscreen formulations has been explored, especially the group of flavonoids such as rutin, which shows positive results regarding photoprotective efficacy. The main objective of this research was to evaluate the potential of rutin as a photostabilizer substance of EHMC and BMBM. Formulations were developed containing the two filters associated or not with rutin, according to factorial design at three levels. The formulations were evaluated for in vitro photoprotective efficacy applied on PMMA plates and analyzed by spectrophotometer with integrating sphere reflectance before and after exposure to UV radiation. Molecular interactions of filters with rutin were evaluated by 1H NMR, DSC, TG and qualitative analysis of the suppression of singlet energy state. The addition of rutin in the formulations containing 5.0 % (w/w) BMBM and 10.0 % (w/w) EHMC promoted an increase in the preservation of in vitro SPF of 53.9% to 65.8 (0.1 % rutin) and 70.8 % (1.0% rutin). The DSC and TG curves of rutin showed changes promoted by the presence of BMBM and EHMC filters, indicating interaction between the flavonoid and filters. After 5760 J cm-2 of UV radiation the value of the trans/cis ratio for the EHMC filter added from the BMBM filter was increased from 5.5 ± 0.1 without addition of rutin, to 12.6 ± 0 4,with the addition of rutin. Qualitative analysis of the suppression of the singlet state indicated that one of the mechanisms involved in the photostabilization BMBM and EHMC filters is suppression of singlet excited state.The results reported in this study indicate that the addition of rutin in sunscreen formulations is a simple and effective way to increase the photostability of the combination of BMBM and EHMC. The addition of rutin in sunscreen formulations represents a promising strategy, for allied with the photostabilization action, observed in this study, this flavonoid has antioxidant and chelating properties of metals that can contribute to the development of broad-spectrum sunscreens formulations with increased safety and efficacy

Development of methodologies for dimethylaminoethanol glycolate assay in association with sunscreens in dermocosmetic formulation

DMAE glycolate (DG) and sunscreens have been used associated in anti-aging dermocosmetic formulations. Despite extensive use of these substances, methods for quantification of DG as raw material and in cosmetic formulations, especially when associated, are not described in the literature. RP-HPLC and non-aqueous titration methods, with determination potentiometric end-point (PT), were developed and validated for rapid assay of DG as raw material and in a topic emulsion in association with sunscreens. Both methods are simple, selective, linear, accurate and precise. The PT method was chosen for stability study of DG in the formulation developed. The proposed formulation presented good stability performance as regards aspect, pH, apparent viscosity, and SPF, with less than 5% of DG degradation compared to initial conditions.

Glicolato de DMAE (DG) e protetores solares têm sido utilizados associados em formulações dermocosméticas antiidade. Apesar da ampla utilização dessas substâncias, métodos de quantificação para DG matéria-prima e em formulações cosméticas, especialmente quando associados, não estão descritos na literatura. Neste trabalho foram desenvolvidas e validadas metodologias por CLAE-FR e titulação em meio não-aquoso, com determinação do ponto final por potenciométrica (TP), para a rápida análise de DG matéria-prima e em emulsão tópica em associação com fotoprotetores. Ambos os métodos são simples, seletivos, lineares, exatos e precisos. O método TP foi escolhido para o estudo da estabilidade do DG na formulação desenvolvida. A formulação proposta apresentou um bom desempenho no que se refere a estabilidade, aspecto, pH, viscosidade aparente e SPF, com menos de 5% degradação do DG comparado as condições iniciais.

Fotoprotección en la infancia / Photoprotection in children

La mayor parte de la exposición solar total de un individuo ocurre durante la infancia y la adolescencia. Las conductas sobre salud se establecen precozmente y se mantienen durante la vida adulta. Los filtros solares son sustancias que reducen los efectos de la radiación ultravioleta (RUV) sobre la piel a través de la absorción, reflexión o dispersión de la luz incidente. Son rotulados de acuerdo con el factor de protección solar (FPS), el cual en la práctica depende de las condiciones ambientales y de la cantidad de filtro aplicada en la piel. Para una buena fotoprotección son importantes, además del FPS del filtro, su acción de amplio espectro, la cantidad aplicada, la regularidad en su uso y las re-aplicaciones a lo largo del período de exposición. El uso de filtros solares en niños menores de 6 meses de edad debería evitarse, pero cuando la fotoprotección física fuera imposible, su uso debiera ser considerado. En esos casos, se deben evitar ingredientes que anteriormente hayan causado alguna reacción alérgica. Fórmulas que contengan perfumes y colorantes deben ser evitadas en todas las edades, porque aumentan los riesgos de sensibilización. Los filtros solares deben formar parte de un conjunto de medidas de fotoprotección que incluye: usar ropas adecuadas, sombreros, elegir la sombra y disminuir la exposición en horarios en que las radiaciones son más intensas.

Most of the total sun exposure of a person occurs during childhood and adolescence. Health behaviors that are established early in life remain into adulthood. Sunscreens are substances that reduce the effects of the ultraviolet radiation (UV) on the skin, through the absorption, reflection or scattering of light from natural or artificial sources. They are labeled according to the sun protection factor (SPF), which in practice is dependent on environmental conditions and the amount of filter applied to the skin. For a good photoprotection in addition to the SPF of the filter, its broad spectrum of action, the amount applied, regularity in the use as well as its reapplication over the period of exposure are important. Children under 6 months of age should avoid using sunscreens, but when physical protection is impossible, their use would be considered. In those cases, ingredients that have caused any allergic reaction should be avoided. Sunscreens that contain fragrances and dyes should be avoided at all ages given the risk of skin sensitization. Sunscreens must be part of a package of photoprotection measures which should include wearing adequate clothing, hats, shade, and reduction of exposure in high UV radiation hours.

La inconsistencia del factor de protección solar (FPS) en México: El caso de los filtros para piel oleosa / Inconsistency in sun protection factor (SPF) index in Mexico: The case of sunscreens for oily skin

Antecedentes: en México la información acerca del grado de protección de los filtros solares no es fácilmente accesible por fuentes alternas a los fabricantes. Objetivo: evaluar el factor de protección solar (FPS) de 12 filtros solares comerciales para piel oleosa existentes en el mercado mexicano. Lugar de realización: Departamento de dermatología de la Universidad Autónoma de San Luis Potosí, México. Sujetos y métodos: se evaluaron 20 voluntarios sanos con fototipos II y IV. Se determinó el FPS de estos filtros solares utilizando las recomendaciones de la FDA indicadas en su monografía final. Resultados: el FPS obtenido mostró márgenes entre 7.8 y 26.9. Los valores del FPS determinados mediante simulación solar mostró valores de 22% a 74% menores al de la etiqueta. Conclusiones: advertimos del riesgo potencial que implica la sobreestimación del FPS debido a que ninguno de los filtros evaluados demostró la protección ofrecida. Es deseable una regulación más apropiada, porque los filtros solares se consideran cosméticos y no requieren estudios clínicos para verificar su eficacia antes de su comercialización.

Background: In Mexico, information regarding sunscreen protection is not widely accessible from sources other than manufacturers. Objective: To assess the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 12, over the counter sunscreens for oily or acne prone skin available in the Mexican market. Setting: Dermatology Department. Autonomous University of San Luis Potosí, Mexico. Subjects and Methods: Twenty healthy volunteers of skin type III and IV were tested. Sunscreen SPFs were measured using solar simulated radiation according to FDA final monograph. Results: SPFs ranged between 7.8 and 26.9. Overall SPFs determined by solar simulator showed values between 22% to 74% less than the one advertised in their labels. Conclusions: We warn about the potential risk of SPF overestimation as many of the sunscreens tested did not comply with their offered protection. A proper regulation is needed because sunscreens are considered cosmetic products and do not require clinical tests to verify their efficacy before marketing.

Evaluating the UVA protection of commercially available sunscreens.

Because the protection factor of sunscreens concerns only UVB protection, usually only a little is known about the protection offered in the UVA range. Photoprotection against ultraviolet A (UVA) by five commercially available sunscreens and their components was evaluated in humans, with erythema and pigmentation used as end points. Because UVA-induced tanning obscures a UVA-erythema, quantitative analysis of UVA-erythema cannot be used as the end point in this study. All products provided low UVA protection factor (1.02-1.9). The sunscreen which contain 3 per cent Parsol 1789 was the most effective product and significantly better than the other (p < 0.0001).